{"id":24273,"date":"2019-11-25T23:30:42","date_gmt":"2019-11-25T22:30:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/balkon.art\/home\/?p=24273"},"modified":"2022-01-07T22:26:37","modified_gmt":"2022-01-07T21:26:37","slug":"hatra-arcok","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/balkon.art\/home\/hatra-arcok\/","title":{"rendered":"H\u00e1tra arcok"},"content":{"rendered":"[vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text el_class=”p-2-0″]\n

Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs
\n2019. j\u00falius 5 \u2013 november 17.<\/h4>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]A p\u00e1rizsi Palais Galliera \u2013 Mus\u00e9e de la Mode de la Ville de Paris id\u0151szakos \u2013 \u00e9s falakon k\u00edv\u00fcli \u2013 ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sa a Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle-ben azt a k\u00e9rd\u00e9st veti fel, milyen a divat, ha az \u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00e9ket visel\u0151 testet h\u00e1tulr\u00f3l, a modell m\u00f6g\u00fcl n\u00e9zz\u00fck. Konceptu\u00e1lis a megk\u00f6zel\u00edt\u00e9s. Nem azt mondja, hogy ford\u00edtsuk ki a ruh\u00e1kat \u2013 ahogy a divat nagy dekonstrukt\u0151rei mondt\u00e1k n\u00e9h\u00e1ny \u00e9vtizede \u2013 mutassuk meg az elvarratlan, vagy nagyon is elvarrt sz\u00e1lakat, a felvarrt m\u00e1rkajelz\u00e9st, az anyagok text\u00far\u00e1j\u00e1nak h\u00e1toldal\u00e1t, a szab\u00e1svonalakat, a gombh\u00e1zat. Nem azt mondja, hogy \u00fclj\u00fcnk be a kulissz\u00e1k m\u00f6g\u00e9 \u00e9s a bennfentesek tud\u00e1s\u00e1val onnan n\u00e9zz\u00fck a mozg\u00f3 man\u00f6keneket, a showt, a bemutat\u00f3t el\u0151k\u00e9sz\u00edt\u0151 csapatot. Hanem csak annyit mondd, hogy ne szemb\u0151l, hanem h\u00e1tulr\u00f3l n\u00e9zz\u00fck meg a ruh\u00e1kat. A gesztus a heurisztikus pedag\u00f3gi\u00e1k hangzatoss\u00e1g\u00e1val \u00e9s naivit\u00e1s\u00e1val b\u00edr egyszerre: a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s beharangoz\u00f3j\u00e1ban arr\u00f3l van sz\u00f3, hogy egy arcok \u00e9s el\u0151n\u00e9zetek uralta t\u00e1rsadalomban itt az id\u0151 csavarni egyet a l\u00e1t\u00f3sz\u00f6g\u00fcnk\u00f6n. Els\u0151 olvas\u00e1sra \u00fagy \u00e9reztem, be\u00fcltettek John Keating tan\u00e1r \u00far m\u00e9lt\u00e1n h\u00edres \u00f3r\u00e1j\u00e1ra a Holt k\u00f6lt\u0151k t\u00e1rsas\u00e1ga<\/em> c\u00edm\u0171 filmben, \u00e9s k\u00e9nytelen kelletlen nekem is fel kell \u00e1llnom a padra, ki kell eresztenem a hangom, parancsra f\u00f3kuszt kell v\u00e1ltanom.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_content” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24304″ alignment=”” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]Mit\u0151l nem lesz ennek ellen\u00e9re ez a m\u00fazeum atavisztikus? A t\u00e9rkompoz\u00edci\u00f3t aszerint alak\u00edtott\u00e1k \u00e1t, hogy ne csak a szobrok, hanem a helysz\u00edn \u00e9s a t\u00e9r jellegzetess\u00e9gei is \u00e9rv\u00e9nyes\u00fcljenek, \u00e9s ami m\u00e9g l\u00e9nyegesebb: folyamatosan m\u00e1s ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sokat helyeznek Bourdelle alkot\u00e1sai k\u00f6z\u00e9, \u00edgy alak\u00edtva ki nemcsak egy saj\u00e1tos strat\u00e9gi\u00e1t, hanem olyan ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1si komplexumot, amelyben Bourdelle szobrai gyakran csak kontextusk\u00e9nt, \u00e9s nem l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyoss\u00e1gk\u00e9nt szolg\u00e1lnak. \u00cdgy m\u0171k\u00f6d\u00f6tt a Back Side<\/em> c\u00edm\u0171, 2019 j\u00faliusa \u00e9s novembere k\u00f6z\u00f6tt rendezett divatki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s is, amely \u2013 elnevez\u00e9s\u00e9b\u0151l is sejthet\u0151en \u2013 a ruh\u00e1k, \u00f6lt\u00f6zetek, kieg\u00e9sz\u00edt\u0151k \u00e9s szettek h\u00e1t\u00e1ra, h\u00e1ts\u00f3 r\u00e9sz\u00e9re koncentr\u00e1lt. Amilyen ban\u00e1lis \u00f6tletnek t\u0171nik els\u0151 hall\u00e1sra, olyan elgondolkodtat\u00f3: a h\u00e1t testt\u00e1jk\u00e9nt, gondolatk\u00e9nt \u00e9s fenomenol\u00f3giai l\u00e9tez\u0151k\u00e9nt egyform\u00e1n van jelen a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sban \u00e9s paratextusaiban egyar\u00e1nt. A saj\u00e1t h\u00e1t az, amit nem l\u00e1tunk, m\u00e1sok\u00e9t ugyanakkor nagyon is, s az sem mindegy, milyen kultur\u00e1lis jelent\u00e9seket t\u00e1rs\u00edtunk hozz\u00e1. A h\u00e1t k\u00e9pes m\u00e9diumk\u00e9nt m\u0171k\u00f6dni, testtel, politik\u00e1val vagy szexualit\u00e1ssal kapcsolatos jelent\u00e9seket megfogalmazni: hogy egy ruh\u00e1nak milyen a h\u00e1tkiv\u00e1g\u00e1sa, mit \u00e9s hogyan mutat meg a testb\u0151l, mit fed fel, vagy \u00e9ppen rejt el, megannyi kultur\u00e1lis v\u00e1ltoz\u00f3 f\u00fcggv\u00e9nye. Ahogyan a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s vezet\u0151j\u00e9ben is olvashat\u00f3, egy t\u00e1rsadalomban, amely megsz\u00e1llottan az arc t\u00f6k\u00e9letess\u00e9g\u00e9t keresi, kimondottan \u00e9rdekes megford\u00edtani a kultur\u00e1lis f\u00f3kuszt, arr\u00f3l gondolkodva, vajon hogyan \u00e9rz\u00e9kelik az emberek a saj\u00e1t h\u00e1tukat, hogyan \u00e9rz\u00e9kelik m\u00e1sok h\u00e1t\u00e1t, \u00e9s egy\u00e1ltal\u00e1n: milyen pszichol\u00f3giai \u00e9s t\u00e1rsadalomt\u00f6rt\u00e9neti vonatkoz\u00e1sok t\u00e1rs\u00edthat\u00f3k a h\u00e1ts\u00f3 oldal percepci\u00f3j\u00e1hoz? Hogyan olvad bele valami a h\u00e1tt\u00e9rbe, \u00e9s hogyan k\u00e9pes ugyanez a h\u00e1tt\u00e9r kiemelni valamit?[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_content” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”full-0-15″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24305″ alignment=”” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]A ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s szerencs\u00e9re meg haladta meg a l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyos els\u0151 gesztus performativit\u00e1s\u00e1t: k\u00e9pes tartalommal felt\u00f6lteni a perspekt\u00edvav\u00e1lt\u00e1st. A Galliera M\u00fazeum csak id\u0151szakos ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sok alkalm\u00e1val l\u00e1that\u00f3 impoz\u00e1ns gy\u0171jtem\u00e9ny\u00e9b\u0151l itt most val\u00f3ban h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zetben voltak l\u00e1that\u00f3ak a ruh\u00e1k, a k\u00f6rnyezet azonban Antoine Bourdelle<\/span> szobr\u00e1sz m\u0171terem-lak\u00e1s-m\u00fazeuma, ahol a divatt\u00e1rgy \u00e9s a szobort\u00e1rgy egym\u00e1s mell\u00e9 ker\u00fclt. A helysz\u00ednv\u00e1laszt\u00e1st hiteles\u00edti az is, hogy Bourdelle-r\u0151l k\u00f6ztudott: megrendel\u0151inek \u00fagy mutatta meg az elk\u00e9sz\u00fclt szobrokat, hogy mindig a h\u00e1tukat leplezte le, hogy el\u0151bb err\u0151l a saj\u00e1tos, intim oldalr\u00f3l l\u00e1ssanak r\u00e1 a form\u00e1ra. A ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s teh\u00e1t \u00fagy n\u00e9z ki, hogy a Bourdelle m\u00fazeum k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151 tereiben l\u00e1that\u00f3k a k\u00f6z\u00f6ns\u00e9gnek h\u00e1tat ford\u00edt\u00f3 pr\u00f3babab\u00e1kra elhelyezett ruh\u00e1k. A terek k\u00fcl\u00f6nf\u00e9l\u00e9k: a bej\u00e1rat melletti impoz\u00e1ns csarnok mellett Bourdelle m\u0171terme, a fest\u0151m\u0171terem, az udvar, az erk\u00e9ly, a nappali egyar\u00e1nt a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00f3t\u00e9r r\u00e9sze lesz, a Gallier\u00e1b\u00f3l \u00e1thozott darabok pedig \u00f6sszekeverednek a szobrokkal, egyszerre mutatj\u00e1k saj\u00e1t h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet\u00fcket \u00e9s h\u00edvj\u00e1k fel a figyelm\u00fcnket a szobrok h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet\u00e9re. A ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s alapfogalm\u00e1t az egyik folyos\u00f3 ugratja ki legjobban az\u00e1ltal, hogy a falakon divatbemutat\u00f3k modelljeinek egym\u00e1s mell\u00e9 helyezett k\u00e9pei szerepeltek \u2013 \u00fagy, ahogy a divatsajt\u00f3 k\u00f6zli \u0151ket, s a n\u00e9z\u0151t val\u00f3ban lehengereli a felismer\u00e9s, mennyire megszoktuk, hogy nem akarjuk l\u00e1tni az \u00f6ssze\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1sok h\u00e1t\u00e1t, tudatosan, kultur\u00e1lis \u00e9s hagyom\u00e1nyosan megfosztottuk magunkat a l\u00e1tv\u00e1ny fel\u00e9t\u0151l. M\u00edg ez a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s igazs\u00e1got szolg\u00e1ltat, megmutatta azt, amit\u0151l megfosztottuk magunkat, megfosztottak benn\u00fcnket. Ugyanakkor a t\u00e1rgyle\u00edr\u00e1sok, amelyek egy katal\u00f3gusban k\u00f6vethet\u0151ek \u00e9s a teret nem terhelik, folyamatosan utalnak a ruha h\u00e1tulj\u00e1nak kult\u00fart\u00f6rt\u00e9net\u00e9re, az emberi h\u00e1t megmutat\u00e1s\u00e1nak t\u00e1rsadalmi helyzeteire.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_content” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24306″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]A t\u00e1rlat perspekt\u00edvav\u00e1lt\u00e1sa amiatt sem meglep\u0151, mert az elm\u00falt \u00e9vtizedek nagyon r\u00e1szoktattak mindenkit a m\u00f6g\u00e9-n\u00e9z\u00e9sre. Szinte tren\u00edrozva vagyunk arra, hogy a h\u00e1tt\u00e9rt\u00f6rt\u00e9netre, a bels\u0151 n\u00e9z\u0151pontra, a kulissz\u00e1k m\u00f6g\u00f6tti titkokra legy\u00fcnk k\u00edv\u00e1ncsiak. Amikor koncertekre \u00fagy j\u00e1runk, hogy azok koreograf\u00e1lt verzi\u00f3j\u00e1t el\u0151bb vizu\u00e1lis albumon megn\u00e9zt\u00fck, amikor ugyanannyi id\u0151t sz\u00e1nunk egy sorozat vagy film werksorozat\u00e1nak, werkvide\u00f3j\u00e1nak megn\u00e9z\u00e9s\u00e9re, mint a sorozattartalomra, amikor teljes ipar\u00e1gak mocskos bels\u0151 titkai ker\u00fcltek nyilv\u00e1noss\u00e1gra \u00e9s tartott\u00e1k l\u00e1zban a k\u00f6zbesz\u00e9det, a behind the scenes teljesen legitim perspekt\u00edva. A kiterjesztett val\u00f3s\u00e1g, az IMAX-technol\u00f3gia ugyan\u00edgy visszaadja a sok\u00e1ig 2D-s l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyvil\u00e1gokb\u00f3l kimarad\u00f3 h\u00e1ts\u00f3 dimenzi\u00f3t. \u00c9ppen emiatt a divat 360 fokos fordulata kicsit k\u00e9s\u0151n \u00e9rkezettnek, \u00e9s n\u00e9mik\u00e9pp szer\u00e9nynek t\u0171nik. A t\u00e1rlat nem l\u00e9p fel azzal az ig\u00e9nnyel, hogy tegy\u00fck ezent\u00fal forgathat\u00f3v\u00e1 a divatbemutat\u00f3k k\u00e9peit, nem rakja tele zavarba ejt\u0151en teljes hologramokkal a teret, hogy j\u00f3v\u00e1 tegyen egy kultur\u00e1lis hi\u00e1tust. Csak szer\u00e9nyen bejelenti, nagy mulaszt\u00e1st k\u00f6vett\u00fcnk el.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24308″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]Mert mennyi mindent jelent a h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet?<\/p>\n

A ruha h\u00e1ta a ruh\u00e1zat legnagyobb egyben marad\u00f3 textifel\u00fclete, amely dekor\u00e1ci\u00f3ra kiv\u00e1l\u00f3an alkalmas. Ugyanakkor a h\u00e1tunk az a testr\u00e9sz\u00fcnk is, melyet mi magunk nem l\u00e1tunk, egy r\u00e9sz\u00e9t \u00e9rinteni sem tudjuk. Bourdelle megk\u00e9rte bar\u00e1tait, hogy h\u00e1t\u00e1r\u00f3l gipsznyomatot k\u00e9sz\u00edtsenek: a nyomat ott van a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1son azt dokument\u00e1lva, mennyire t\u00f6rekedett arra, hogy a leglehetetlenebb testtapasztalatot is integr\u00e1lja \u00e9letm\u0171v\u00e9be. \u00cdgy lehet a h\u00e1t a kontroll elveszt\u00e9s\u00e9nek, a t\u00e1madhat\u00f3s\u00e1gnak, a t\u00e1mad\u00e1snak \u00e9s a cs\u00e1b\u00edt\u00e1snak a terepe. Walter van Beirendonck<\/span> 2019\u20132020-as WOW<\/em> c\u00edmet visel\u0151 kollekci\u00f3j\u00e1nak sz\u00f6rnyei h\u00e1tizs\u00e1kokr\u00f3l n\u00e9znek a visel\u0151 spont\u00e1n utcai k\u00eds\u00e9ret\u00e9re. Folyamatosan improviz\u00e1lt ellen\u0151rz\u00e9s alatt tartj\u00e1k h\u00e1torsz\u00e1gunkat. Ugyanakkor a h\u00e1t lecsupasz\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1nak van egy er\u0151teljesen szexualiz\u00e1lt olvasata: a n\u0151i h\u00e1t megmutat\u00e1sa a v\u00f6r\u00f6ssz\u0151nyeges kell\u00e9kt\u00e1r \u00e9s ugyanazon rendszerszint\u0171 diszkrimin\u00e1ci\u00f3 r\u00e9sze, mint a magassark\u00fa. Beirendonck sz\u00f6rnyeire a Givenchyn\u00e1l dolgoz\u00f3 Clare Waight Keller<\/span> Tha\u00efs<\/em> \u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00e9ke a v\u00e1lasz: a szemb\u0151l nagyon fegyelmezett alakot mutat\u00f3 fekete garb\u00f3 lila-piros f\u00f6ldig \u00e9r\u0151 degrad\u00e9 szokny\u00e1val h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zetb\u0151l egy szinte teljesen lecsupasz\u00edtott h\u00e1tat tesz l\u00e1that\u00f3v\u00e1. A bej\u00e1rat melletti t\u00e9rb\u0151l v\u00e1laszol ennek a ruhat\u00e1rgynak Guy Laroche<\/span> fekete nagyest\u00e9lyije, melyet Mireille Darc<\/span> viselt Yves Robert<\/span> Magas sz\u0151ke f\u00e9rfi felem\u00e1s cip\u0151ben<\/em> c\u00edm\u0171 filmj\u00e9ben. A fen\u00e9kvonalig m\u00e9lyen kiv\u00e1gott ruha po\u00e9n: arra j\u00e1tszik r\u00e1, amit a Givenchy ruha, b\u00e1r \u00e1t\u00e9rtelmezve, de felmutat. Egy m\u00e1sik teremben l\u00e1that\u00f3 Jean-Paul Gaultier<\/span> gendersemleges eszt\u00e9tik\u00e1t teremt\u0151 gesztusa, mellyel a f\u00e9rfih\u00e1tat csupasz\u00edtja le. A ballonkab\u00e1tot haute couture f\u00e9rfiruhak\u00e9nt megmutat\u00f3 \u00f6lt\u00f6zet a h\u00e1tat felfedi, majd hossz\u00fa usz\u00e1lyban hagyja folytat\u00f3dni. Martine Sitbone<\/span> kor\u00e1bbr\u00f3l, a kilencvenes \u00e9vekb\u0151l hozza az el\u00f6ln\u00e9zet-h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet kontrasztj\u00e1t: a struktur\u00e1lt el\u00f6ln\u00e9zet a szabad mozg\u00e1st megenged\u0151, laz\u00e1bb h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zetre r\u00edmel. Sitbone ugyanannak a tervez\u0151gener\u00e1ci\u00f3nak a tagja, mint Beirendonck: a testhat\u00e1rok ruha \u00e1ltali \u00fajradefini\u00e1l\u00e1s\u00e1nak k\u00e9rd\u00e9sei izgatj\u00e1k.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24307″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]Az \u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00e9k h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zete a t\u00e1rsadalmi k\u00fcl\u00f6nbs\u00e9gteremt\u00e9s eszk\u00f6ze. A pal\u00e1st \u00e9s a nagyest\u00e9lyi usz\u00e1lya pontosan annyira emeli el visel\u0151j\u00e9t a t\u00e1rsadalom eg\u00e9sz\u00e9t\u0151l, ah\u00e1ny l\u00e9p\u00e9snyi t\u00e1vols\u00e1got kell tartanunk t\u0151le ahhoz, hogy a text\u00edli\u00e1t megk\u00edm\u00e9lj\u00fck. A tizenk\u00e9t lak\u00e1j hordta francia kir\u00e1lyi viselett\u0151l az egyh\u00e1zi tal\u00e1rig, a menyasszonyi ruh\u00e1kig \u00e9s az \u00e9nekesn\u0151 Rihanna Guo Pei<\/span> k\u00e9sz\u00edtette pizza-usz\u00e1ly\u00e1ig a t\u00falm\u00e9retezett anyag kisaj\u00e1t\u00edtja a teret, nem takar\u00e9kos \u00e9s nem k\u00edm\u00e9letes. A h\u00e1t a nyugati divatrendszer kor\u00e1ban is k\u00fcl\u00f6nbs\u00e9get teremt. Yohji Yamamoto<\/span> 1996\u20131997-es divatbemutat\u00f3ja a ruh\u00e1k h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet\u00e9re f\u00f3kusz\u00e1lt: a t\u00e1rlaton a gyapj\u00fa\u00f6lt\u00f6zet egy darabja l\u00e1that\u00f3. Itt a k\u00fcl\u00f6nbs\u00e9get az elegancia, a st\u00edlusnemess\u00e9g teremti meg. A tervez\u0151 szerint az utc\u00e1n halad\u00f3 embereket h\u00e1tulr\u00f3l n\u00e9zve \u00e1llap\u00edtja meg, ki mennyire sz\u00e9p: ha uralod a h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zetet, a divattudatoss\u00e1god maxim\u00e1lis. A modernit\u00e1s \u00faj elitj\u00e9nek tagja van.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24311″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]A k\u00fcl\u00f6nbs\u00e9gteremt\u00e9s a testk\u00e1nonnak megfelel\u0151 vagy att\u00f3l nagyon elt\u00e9r\u0151 h\u00e1t form\u00e1j\u00e1ban is ott van. Bourdelle m\u0171term\u00e9ben \u00e1ll\u00edtott\u00e1k ki Rei Kawakubo<\/span> azon 1997-es Comme des Gar\u00e7ons<\/em>-testeit, melyek poliuret\u00e1n form\u00e1kkal toldott\u00e1k meg az alapform\u00e1t, s \u00edgy olyan amorf, p\u00fapos, elg\u00f6rb\u00fclt h\u00e1takat vittek r\u00e1 a man\u00f6kenek test\u00e9re, melyek a h\u00e9tk\u00f6znapjainkban nagyon is jelen vannak. A h\u00e1t a betegs\u00e9gek, a munka, a balesetek, a j\u00f3 \u00e9s rossz szok\u00e1sok, a tudatos vagy gy\u00f6tr\u0151 \u00e9letm\u00f3d jelz\u00e9seinek terepe. Ugyanabban a t\u00e9rben van Bourdelle Rodin-b\u00fcsztje: a fej beszorul a v\u00e1llak k\u00f6z\u00e9, nyomor\u00e9k, nyomorg\u00f3.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24314″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]A saj\u00e1t h\u00e1tat nem l\u00e1tjuk, m\u00e1sok\u00e9t viszont igen \u2013 ez az egyszer\u0171 meg\u00e1llap\u00edt\u00e1s egyben annak esend\u0151s\u00e9g\u00e9re is felh\u00edvja a figyelmet, hogy melyik korszak takarja el vagy \u00e9ppen teszi szabadd\u00e1 a h\u00e1tat, hiszen az teljesen kiszolg\u00e1ltatott a m\u00e1sik ember tekintet\u00e9nek. Azonban a ki\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s nemcsak az \u00edves, atl\u00e9tikus vagy \u00e9ppen izmos h\u00e1takr\u00f3l tesz eml\u00edt\u00e9st, hiszen a deform\u00e1lt h\u00e1tnak is saj\u00e1tos jelent\u00e9sr\u00e9tegei vannak \u2013 el\u00e9g, ha a p\u00faposs\u00e1gra gondolunk, ami nemcsak Victor Hugo torony\u0151r\u00e9re jellemz\u0151, hanem beteg vagy id\u0151s, teh\u00e1t a divat k\u00e1nonj\u00e1b\u00f3l kiszorul\u00f3 testeknek is saj\u00e1tja.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24312″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]K\u00fcl\u00f6n \u00f6ssze\u00e1ll\u00edt\u00e1s dokument\u00e1lja a jelz\u00e9sekkel, \u00fczenetekkel, mondanival\u00f3val telerakott h\u00e1tat. Susan Barnett<\/span> Amerik\u00e1ban k\u00e9sz\u00edtett fot\u00f3i h\u00e1tportr\u00e9k, melyek a portr\u00e9hagyom\u00e1nyt k\u00e9rd\u0151jelezik meg azzal, hogy a testnek az ellent\u00e9tes oldal\u00e1ra k\u00edv\u00e1ncsiak. Ezeket a portr\u00e9kat olyan ruh\u00e1k veszik k\u00f6r\u00fcl, melyeken feliratok, er\u0151teljes dekor\u00e1ci\u00f3k l\u00e1that\u00f3k. A szubkultur\u00e1lis t\u0151k\u00e9t jelz\u0151 d\u00edsz\u00edt\u00e9sekt\u0151l a focimezek felirataiig vagy a kort\u00e1rs slacktivism szlogenjeig, a r\u00e1varr\u00f3kig, matric\u00e1kig, tetov\u00e1l\u00e1sokig terjeszkedik az unalmas h\u00e1tfel\u00fclet izgalmass\u00e1 t\u00e9tel\u00e9nek kult\u00fart\u00f6rt\u00e9nete. A gy\u0171jt\u00e9s, megmutat\u00e1s itt sem kimer\u00edt\u0151: ink\u00e1bb felmutatja a t\u00e9ma kont\u00farjait. A Tom Ford porn chicj\u00e9b\u0151l ikonikuss\u00e1 avanzs\u00e1lt Gucci-m\u00e1rkajelz\u00e9s\u0171 tanga, mely h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zetb\u0151l mind\u00f6ssze h\u00e1rom, a G-log\u00f3val \u00f6sszekapcsolt zsin\u00f3rb\u00f3l \u00e1ll (1997) egym\u00e1s mell\u00e9 ker\u00fcl az Alessandro Michele-f\u00e9le Gucci L\u2019Aveugle par amour kollekci\u00f3j\u00e1nak e feliratot hordoz\u00f3 koszt\u00fcmj\u00e9vel: Fanny de Beauharnais 1781-es darabj\u00e1nak c\u00edme a 2017-es k\u00e9szruha-kollekci\u00f3 mott\u00f3ja. A San Francisco-i hanky code-re utal\u00f3 Jean-Paul Gaultier-\u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00e9k, a mezek felirat\u00e1nak t\u00f6rt\u00e9nete Marcel Cedran bokszol\u00f3 k\u00f6penye aprop\u00f3j\u00e1n, a foglyok egyenruh\u00e1j\u00e1n olvashat\u00f3 sz\u00e1msor egy m\u00e1sodik vil\u00e1gh\u00e1bor\u00faban angol fogs\u00e1gba esett n\u00e9met fogoly \u00f6lt\u00f6zet\u00e9n, egy 2016-os Zara kab\u00e1t \u2019I Really Don\u2019t Care, Do You?\u2019 felirattal ker\u00fclnek egym\u00e1s mell\u00e9 e kultur\u00e1lisan hibrid v\u00e1logat\u00e1sban.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24310″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” class=”p-4-0″ overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” width=”2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][vc_column_text]Az \u00e9p\u00fclet terasz\u00e1n olyan filmr\u00e9szletek mennek, melyek cs\u00facsra j\u00e1ratt\u00e1k a h\u00e1t-mitol\u00f3gi\u00e1t: a Toni Erdman ( Maren Ade, 2016), a Modern id\u0151k ( Charlie Chaplin, 1936), Fritz Lang M-je (1931) \u00e9rvelnek amellett, hogy a h\u00e1t eszt\u00e9tik\u00e1ja multimedi\u00e1lis. Ugyanonnan esik gy\u00f6ny\u00f6r\u0171 r\u00e1l\u00e1t\u00e1s a Montparnasse-toronyra, melynek mint mesters\u00e9ges form\u00e1nak, nincs el\u00f6l- \u00e9s h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zete. T\u00e9glatestk\u00e9nt k\u00e9t keskenyebb \u00e9s k\u00e9t sz\u00e9lesebb fel\u00fclete van. A divat h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zete teh\u00e1t valamif\u00e9le antropol\u00f3giai adotts\u00e1g lenne? A t\u00e1rlat alighanem emellett is \u00e9rvel, mik\u00f6zben imagin\u00e1rius l\u00e9nyek, kentaurok test\u00e9nek h\u00e1tuln\u00e9zet\u00e9n is elgondolkodtat. Az \u00e1llatokn\u00e1l meg\u00e1ll.<\/p>\n

A nagyon sokr\u00e9t\u0171en fel\u00e9p\u00edtett t\u00e9ma egy olyan analitikus franciaorsz\u00e1gi gondolkod\u00e1si hagyom\u00e1nyra utal, amely a strukturalizmust, a French Theoryt, a Nouveau Romant is eredm\u00e9nyezte. Hagyja a kur\u00e1tort v\u00e9giggondolni egy k\u00e9rd\u00e9s \u00f6sszetetts\u00e9g\u00e9t, mint\u00e1zatokat keres a probl\u00e9m\u00e1ban, \u00e9s rendszerszer\u0171v\u00e9 teszi az arr\u00f3l val\u00f3 gondolkod\u00e1st. Nem aktivista, nem akar identit\u00e1sj\u00e1t\u00e9kokba bocs\u00e1tkozni, csak eleg\u00e1nsan megmutatja, mindez ennyire bonyolult. R\u00e1mutat a h\u00e1tunk k\u00f6zep\u00e9re, ahova nem n\u00e9zhet\u00fcnk.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”box-l20″ width=”1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none” offset=”vc_col-sm-offset-0 vc_hidden-sm vc_hidden-xs”][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_content” full_screen_row_position=”middle” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-cont-4-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”][image_with_animation image_url=”24309″ alignment=”center” animation=”Fade In” img_link_large=”yes” hover_animation=”none” border_radius=”none” box_shadow=”none” image_loading=”default” max_width=”100%” max_width_mobile=”default” el_class=”full-img”][vc_column_text]\n

Back Side \/ Dos \u00e0 la mode.<\/em> | Mus\u00e9e Bourdelle, P\u00e1rizs \u00a9 Fot\u00f3: Pierre Antoine<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_content” full_screen_row_position=”middle” vertically_center_columns=”true” column_margin=”default” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″ shape_divider_position=”bottom” bg_image_animation=”none” shape_type=””][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ column_link_target=”_self” column_shadow=”none” column_border_radius=”none” el_class=”p-2-0″ width=”1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=”default” tablet_text_alignment=”default” phone_text_alignment=”default” overlay_strength=”0.3″ column_border_width=”none” column_border_style=”solid” bg_image_animation=”none”]

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